Pant Fit - Crotch to Hem

Pant Fit — Signs Of Well-Fitting Pants — Part 3

This is the last post in my 3 part series, Pant Fit — Signs Of Well-Fitting Pants. I took the time to go into more detail because this is an important subject. I have found over the years most women have no idea how pants should fit.

The last piece of the puzzle is the length from the crotch to hem. When thinking about Pant Fit and hem length, consider your Body Proportions from your crotch to knees, knees to floor and also legs to your torso. If your legs are short in any area, have an eye on where the hem (horizontal line) is placed. Remember horizontal lines makes an area appear to be shorter. The goal is to have a balanced body.

Pant Fit -- Crotch To Hem Length

Pant Fit - Crotch to Hem Length

Skinny and Slim Leg Pant

For most skinny and slim leg pants, the hem should hit right around the ankle. I personally like it below my ankle because that way my legs appear longer. Understanding your legs in respect to Body Proportion will help you find the best place for your pant hem. (For more information on Body Proportion go Body Proportions — Out of Balance?)

If you’re considering skinny capri pants go to the section below about capri length pants.

If the hem is too long, you’re in luck. This is an easy alteration. You can always cut off fabric but it’s harder to add length.

If the hem is too short there are ways to lengthen it. Look in the Alterations section below. If you are having trouble finding pants long enough, look online. Many stores (like Macy’s) carry long pants only online. Before buying the long pants online try the regular version for fit in the store if you can.

Straight And Bootcut Leg Pants

You will find straight and bootcut lengthens anywhere from capri to ½ – 1 inch of the ground when wearing 3 inch heels. As you can tell in my posts, I’m not a big fan of capri length pants. Mostly because if you have short legs they appear even shorter. When looking at overall body balance I think the best length of straight and bootcut leg pants is around ½ – 1 inch off the ground. The actual length depends on your shoe’s heel height. If you want to create length in your legs consider wearing heels. With pant length being ½ – 1 inch of the ground you can create the illusion of longer legs.

If you need to shorten the length, that is an easy alteration. If you need to lengthen it, examine the hem amount. For this type of leg it’s usually 1 to 2 inches. This means you can add ¾ to 1 ¾ inches to the length. Go to the alterations section below for more details.

Capri Length Pant

If you’re considering capri length pants then also think about your Body Proportions and where you want the eye to stop. Remember a hem is a horizontal line which stops the eye, brings attention to that area, and can make that area look wider and shorter. For more information on Body Proportions and horizontal lines go to 

If your legs are shorter than your torso then you should rethink capri pants. However, if your legs are the same length or longer than your torso then capri length pants could work well for you.

Alterations

Alterations for hems are easy and straightforward. Any tailor/alteration seamstress can do it. To shorten, you cut off the excess length and sew in the hem. Lengthening pants is a little more complicated.

Lengthen Pant Legs

To determine if the pants can be lengthened, look at the actual hem. Most jean hems can’t be lengthened. Two reason:

  • Hem is not long enough to add length.
  • If there is enough hem to add length, there is wear at the fold causing a line, which is not always a pretty line.

It’s easier to lengthen trousers if the hem is long enough. Most hems are around 1 inch allowing you to lengthen the pants by ¾ inch. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a 2 inch hem allowing the length to be increased by 1 ¾ inches.

I have a friend who is over 6 feet tall and she has a terrible time finding pants long enough. When looking for trousers we look for hems that are 2 inches and this adds enough length for her to wear flats.

Pant Fit -- Sit Test

The final step to pant fit is what I call the sit test. This is an important step because pants fit differently when we sit and we do a lot of sitting.

Sit in a chair or on a bench. How is the fit? Is it comfortable? How are the hips and thighs? Is the waist to crotch length good? Could you sit in them all day?

If they pass the signs of well-fitting pants and the sit test then the pants are a keeper.

Do It Yourself Alterations

Altering pant length is a simple process. There are many videos on YouTube that can help you shorten or lengthen you pant legs:

Now you now know how to determine if your pants fit your body. This is an important part of determining if a pair of pants enhances your body. The last step is understanding fit and your body shape. Most body shapes have issues when fitting pants. In the next and last post about buying a pair of pants, you will learn what issues your body shape might give you and how to handle the issues.

Did you learn anything new? Do you feel empowered to find yourself a pair of well-fitting pants? Please make a comment below.

Wear Your Greatness!!

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