Today’s post is the second on pant fit. Last week you read about how pants should fit around your waist, hips and thighs: Pant Fit — Signs Of Well-Fitting Pants — Part 1. Today’s post is about fit related to the length between your waist and crotch.
Fit in this area is the most critical because it’s the hardest to alter.There are two parts of this fit:
- Rise
- Curve under the front (pelvic bone) to the back (butt)
Rise is the distance between the waist and the crotch. This fit gives you clues to determine whether you are regular fit vs petite. In helping a lot of women, I have come to understand that many don’t understand the difference between the two. Most believe the only difference is in the leg length. Yes there is a difference in the leg length but the real difference is the waist to crotch length. Below you will learn if you need regular or petite.
The front pelvic bone has different curves. If your curve doesn’t match that of the pants, the pants will not lay correctly in this area. For example, my pelvic bone is more rounded so the front crotch areas of most pants don’t lay flat on me.
As you know butts come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. For pants to fit well in this area the curve on the pant needs to match your curve.
In this post you will learn about pant fit for:
- Front waist to crotch
- Back waist to crotch
- Alteration
- Ready-to-wear vs custom
Pant Fit -- Front Waist To Crotch
When looking at the front waist to crotch length you are actually considering 2 things:
- The actual physical length which is the rise
- The curve going around your front pelvic bone
With respect to the actual length it increases as you add more belly. Most pants are created with a flat belly in mind. As you gain weight in this area you will need more fabric to cover the belly. This is very true for “V” and “O” body shapes because they typically gain their weight in this area first.
If you have a large belly, the problem you might face is the crotch length is too short, but the pants fit well in the hips and waist. You could try on a larger size to get the length but the waist and hips could be too big. In this case you might want to look for manufactures with a longer front waist to crotch measurement or alter the bigger size so the waist and hips fit your circumference.
If you find the front length too long, then go down to the “Petite Vs Regular” section below.
The curve around the pelvic bone can create problems. These problems arise because the front crotch curve is either not curved enough or too curved for the particular pelvic bone the pants were created for. You may see slack or extra fabric in this area or fabric pulling. This is caused by the crotch curve. The best way to eliminate the excess fabric is to find a manufacturer/designer making pants that fit your body. I fix this problem by designing and sewing my own pants. Another option is to take the pants to a tailor/alterations seamstress to change the curve. There are some great tailors out there who can effectively alter the crotch curve.
Pant Fit -- Back Waist To Crotch
When looking at the back waist to crotch length you are actually considering 2 things:
- The actual physical length
- The shape and size of your butt
If the butt is bigger and rounder, the actual length between the waistband and crotch is longer than average. The result is the waistband dips down in the back. This is a concern for “A” Body Shapes. Another sign that the length is not long enough is the center back seam goes into the butt crack showing both cheeks.
On the other side, the length shortens as the butt gets smaller creating lots of excess fabric.
If there isn’t enough length, there is not a lot you can do about it. You need to look for a manufacturer/designer who designs for your figure.
If it’s too long there is a possibility to take out some of the length. Ask your tailor/alterations seamstress. If you can’t take out all the length then find a manufacturer/designer who designs for you figure.
The next thing you need to consider is the curve of the back crotch. As with the front there are different curves. The main problem is overtime we lose muscle mass and our butt starts to droop. This causes the crotch area to lay funny. You can get this area altered but I would start by finding manufacturers/designers who design for your body shape.
Pant Fit -- Petite Vs Regular
Petite sizing came about because women who are 5’3” or shorter are shorter from:
- Chin to bust
- Bust to waist
- Waist to crotch
One can be petite on the bottom and regular on top or vice versa. I had a customer who was less than 5 feet tall and she was regular on top and petite on the bottom. I was amazed. For pants, the important length is waist to crotch.
The main difference between petite and regular pants is the distance between the waistband and the area where the pants just start curving in for the crotch. Petite pants are 1-2 inches shorter in this area than regular pants.
When considering pants, you know you are petite on the bottom if when wearing regular pants, the waistband is at the right place but the crotch hangs way low. If you pinch the front crotch and the pinch is larger than ½ inch you need to consider shopping for petite pants.
Many women believe petite is all about the leg length. As you learned above it’s not. If your crotch length for regular pants fits well but the leg length is too long, petite pants will not fit you well.
Alterations
As I stated above alterations in this area are difficult. That being said, if the issue relates to the curved part of the pants that goes under the crotch being too long, alterations can be made. For example, if you have a flat butt the length can be taken in. When dealing with this area, consult your tailor/alterations seamstress. Also some excellent and experienced tailors/alterations seamstresses can change the shape of the curve. As with any profession some are better than others.
Ready-To-Wear Vs Custom Vs Sewing Your Own
As I stated above pant fit between the waist and all the curves is critical to the overall pant fit. If you find multiple fit problems in this area you should consider having your pants custom made or making your own.
Custom
Yes getting custom made pants will cost more, but in my opinion it’s worth it. There are 2 things to consider:
- When wearing a pair of pants that fit you perfectly, how do you feel?
- What is the cost per wear?
When wearing clothes that fit you well you will be able to tap into your confidence. As a result, in my experience, you can accomplish so much more and take steps forward in pursuing your passions. For me that alone is worth it.
You don’t need a closet full of these pants. Start out with a basic style that enhances your body. The key — is you will wear them more (because you love how you feel in them) and the more you wear them the cost per wear decreases.
You will find that custom made pants have better quality construction and are made out of higher quality fabrics than ready-to-wear items, resulting in better quality pants. You will wear them for years further decreasing the cost per wear.
Make Your Own
In your past life did you sew? Have you ever thought I would love to learn how to sew? Do you have a sewing machine gathering dust in a closet? This is a great time to get that sewing machine out and learn how to sew pants.
We live in an age of YouTube and blogs that can help you learn how to sew. Also at this moment (during Covid-19 pandemic), you’re staying in your home. Start watching videos on altering and sewing pants. There’s ample information available from trusted sources.
In fact, I have a blog all about sewing clothes. I started it for women like you who have an interest in and need for sewing their own clothes. I have a whole series of posts on adjusting a basic pant pattern (known as a sloper, from which you can create all other pant patterns). Check it out: Fabricstocrave.com.
Next week’s post is the last of the Pant Fit — Signs Of Well-Fitting Pants series. It’s all about the length fit between your crotch and hem. It’s called: Pant Fit — Signs Of Well-Fitting Pants — Part 3.
Did you learn anything new with respect to pant length between your waist and crotch? Did you find out you’re really a petite when you thought you were regular or regular when you thought you were petite because you have short legs? Please make a comment below.
Wear Your Greatness!!
Thank you!!! I now understand why my pants don’t fit! Pregnancy caused my body shape to change and I’ve been baffled why all my pants seem to sag off despite fitting in the waist circumference. I need a longer front crotch length and a shorter back one.
As we go through life our body changes. We just need to figure out the fit as it changes. A good tailor/seamstress can help you get a good fit.