In my opinion jacket fit is the cause of the love/hate relationship most women have when wearing jackets. I love wearing jackets. I just feel happy when wearing them. This is because I firmly tap into my confidence and personal power when wearing them.
The key to this happy feeling is they have to fit well especially in the shoulders, shoulder blades and bust areas. This is where the best jacket fit begins.
For me, most ready-to-wear jackets don’t fit well because I have sloping, forward shoulders. Also my Body Proportions between my chin and bust, and bust and waist are about 2 inches longer than most ready-to-wear jackets.
I believe that jacket fit is even more important than blouse and dress fit. This is because a jacket makes a statement.
In this post the sections are divided into:
- Shoulders
- Shoulder Blades
- Bust
- Arms
- Waist
- Hips
- Hem
- Regular Vs Petite
- Summary
One final thing, before you start determining if the jacket fit is right for you, you need to understand your 5 Body Elements and the clues they give you. If you need a review or need to determine them go to:
Jacket Fit -- Shoulders
As with blouse fit and dress fit, jacket fit begins in the shoulders. This is important because the jacket hangs from this point.
The shoulder seams should lay flat on your shoulders and around your neck.
There are four common shoulder fit issues when considering jacket fit:
- Shoulder Width
- Square Shoulders
- Sloping Shoulders
- Forward Shoulders
Shoulder Width
The jacket fit process starts with shoulder width. The shoulders of a jacket should extend ¼ to 1 inch out from the end of the shoulders.
The reason for this extension is it creates room for the clothes you wear under it. For example shells, blouses, dresses or sweaters.
Find the size that fits in the shoulders. You might be adjusting this size up because of shoulder blades and/or bust area. You will find out what to do when you need to go up a size in those areas.
If you have a “V” Body Shape the extension should be no wider than ¼ inch. You don’t want your shoulders to appear wider.
However, if you have an “A” or “O” Body Shape look for the jacket shoulders to extend ½ to 1 inch. Being wider, they’ll balance your body.
If you have an “H,” “X” or “S” Body Shape you can wear any shoulder length.
Square Shoulders
The next jacket fit issue is square shoulders. This means your shoulders don’t slope or have less slope than the fit models.
If you have square shoulders, you will find excess fabric where the shoulders and neck meet. You will see fold lines radiating from where the shoulder and arms meet. When you lift the neck up these fold lines disappear.
Most women with square shoulders hate wearing jackets for this reason and also many feel like they have linebacker shoulders wearing football shoulder pads.
This is a difficult issue to alter because the adjustment at the shoulder/neck area is close to impossible, especially on jackets with collars. A tailor/seamstress with magical altering skills might be able to make the adjustment.
However there may be an easy fix. If the jacket has shoulder pads, replace them with ¼ inch shoulder pads. Just taking out the shoulder pads isn’t an option because most jackets’ fit take into consideration having shoulder pads. By replacing them the fold lines starting from the shoulder/arm area will lessen and so will the feeling of having linebacker shoulders.
If you love jackets as I do or you need to wear jackets for work, I highly recommend you have them custom made for you. A well-fitting jacket can help you tap into your confidence and an ill-fitting one can take it away.
I know they can be expensive but a well-fitting jacket is worth it. First look at cost per wearing (cost divided by the number of times you wear it). You will wear a well-fitting jacket a lot more and most you can wear for years.
Also consider this: by tapping into your confidence and personal power consistently, you will create greater impact in your life and others.
Sloping Shoulders
I have sloping shoulders and I think this is one of the reasons I love jackets. Most jackets have shoulder pads and my sloping shoulders are camouflaged by them.
Sloping shoulders means your shoulders slope lower than the original fit model’s shoulders.
When you have sloping shoulders you have excess fabric where the shoulders meet your arms. You will see fold lines radiating out from where your shoulders and neck meet. When you pull up on the shoulders where your shoulders and arms meet, the fold lines will disappear.
This adjustment also can be difficult because sleeves are involved. But there are some talented tailors/seamstresses that can make this adjustment.
An easy fix is to replace the current shoulder pads with thicker ones. Most tailors/seamstresses can do this.
If the above adjustments don’t work, consider getting a custom made jacket. It’s not as expensive as you think when looking at the cost per wearing and the effect of tapping into your confidence and personal power.
Forward Shoulders
Another jacket fit problem in the area of shoulders is forward shoulders. This is when the shoulders lean forward causing the shoulder seam to lie back on the shoulder causing the neck of the jacket to ride up.
The only time this alteration can be made is when you also have sloping shoulders. If this is you then ask your tailor/seamstress if they can do both adjustments.
This is a minor fit problem. However, if this is one more jacket fit issue then, this is one more reason to have your jackets custom made.
Jacket Fit -- Shoulder Blades
Shoulder blades are located on your back between the top of your shoulders to your armpits. They move back and forth as your arms move. This is an important area for fit. If the width in this area is too tight your arm movements will be limited. Most jackets have built in ease which allows your arms to move freely. If the jacket fabric has Lycra built into it or the fabric is a heavy knit you won’t need as much ease.
When you try on a jacket move your arms to make sure you can move them easily without any restriction. You can also look in a three way mirror and look for stress lines in the shoulder blade area, especially ones radiating out from the side seam underarm area. If you see these stress lines go up one size bigger.
This area is also a crucial one because it’s difficult to alter. If you find this area is always too big while other areas fit well, then make sure the jacket fits in this area and look for a tailor/seamstress who can alter the other areas on a regular basis.
Jacket Fit -- Bust
There are three types of bust jacket fit issues:
- Cup Size
- Rib-cage Circumference
- Chin to Bust Length
Cup Size
The bust area can be a difficult area to fit because most designers/manufacturers design for a B/C cup. If you are smaller, this area is always too big and if you’re bigger this area is always too small. This causes a circumference problem. When you’re small, the circumference is too big. On the other hand when you’re too big, the circumference is too small.
You know the jacket is too big when you see excess vertical fold lines in the bust area and especially under your arms. When you pinch the side seams they disappear.
Your jacket is too small if its opening is too wide in the front area.
If you’re smaller than a B cup consider wearing padded bras or ones with underwire. In my younger days this was me. I wore a 32A. To help fill in the excess space, I wore padded underwire bras. This worked perfectly for me. You can also consider alterations by taking up the side seams.
If you’re larger than a C cup you have to look at larger sizes to get the right circumference. I know the shoulder seam won’t be perfect. This is when I would find a tailor/seamstress to alter the area.
If you find most jackets are too small in this area, consider having jackets custom fit to your body. This could save you time and dollars rather than having ready-to-wear jackets altered because you would need to have the shoulders altered. Even with the alterations it might not be a perfect fit.
Ribcage
Ribcage width is another area to consider for jacket fit. It’s the circumference of your ribcage just below your bust.
If you have a “O” Body Shape your ribcage can be wider proportionately than your shoulders. In this case, go for a larger size and alter the shoulders.
Chin To Bust Length
Another jacket fit issue in the bust area relates to length. Body proportion wise some women are short from their chins to their busts, while others are long in this area. Jacket styles with darts or princess lines, can be a problem.
If the jacket has darts, the side dart point should be horizontal with your nipple and 2 inches away from it closest to the side seam. A vertical dart point should end 2 inches below your nipple.
Altering dart points can be difficult, but a skillful tailor/seamstress might be able to do the alteration.
Many jackets have princess lines. Princess lines are seams that take into consideration your bust area creating room for them. If your chin to bust length doesn’t match that of the fit model your bust will be above or below the designated place.
A possible adjustment is to make sure your bras fit you correctly. Many women wear the wrong bras for their bodies and their breasts are not in the right spots. The right bra can make a major difference. Go to stores like Macy’s to get fitted for your perfect bra.
This can be a big issue if your cup size is D or larger. Alterations are difficult for this problem. If this is you, consider a custom made jacket.
Jacket Fit -- Arms
Jacket fit around the arms is important. This is because you most likely will be wearing something under it. You need to make sure the jacket can accommodate it. There are two fit areas you need to consider:
- Circumference around Bicep
- Length of Sleeve
Circumference Around Bicep
The circumference around the bicep needs to be enough to accommodate whatever you’re wearing under the jacket and enough wearing ease so you can move your arms. Any tightness will restrict your movement making the jacket uncomfortable.
As a general rule you need 1-2 inches of wearing ease.
Whenever trying on the jacket for fit, try it with the shell, blouse or sweater you plan on wearing it with to make sure it fits in this area.
This area can be increased by the amount of the seam allowance. If there is one seam there can be around ½ inch let out and if there are two seams you can get 1 inch added to the circumference. In many cases this is all you will need.
If this is a problem area for you, consider having the jacket custom made.
Sleeve Length
Sleeve length can add to or take away from tapping into your confidence and personal power.
The perfect length is just below your wrist bone. I find these days manufacturers make sleeves for jackets on the long side to accommodate those with longer arms. This is good because it’s easier to shorten them than lengthen them.
In most cases it’s an easy alteration to shorten jacket sleeves. If a sleeve has a vent, it can make it a little trickier. All in all, most well trained tailors/seamstresses can do it.
Lengthening a jacket sleeve can be trickier. The amount of lengthening depends on the hem length.
If you find sleeve length on jackets is usually too short, custom made jackets might be a good option for you.
Jacket Fit -- Waist
The goal for a jacket at the waist is to skim over the ribcage down over your waist to the hem. The jacket fit areas you need to consider are:
- Waist Circumference
- Bust to Waist Length
Waist Circumference
When you wear a jacket buttoned or zipped there needs to be 1-2 inches of wearing ease. This will make the jacket more comfortable when moving around and sitting. You don’t want the buttons to have stress on them in that area.
This can be a problem area for “O” Body Shapes and any women who tend to gain weight in this area.
If there is stress when you sit down and you are wearing a blouse or shell under it you can unbutton it.
In my opinion you don’t always need to wear jackets buttoned. You can get away with it being up to an inch too small if everything else fits well and the center front of the jacket hangs well.
However it’s always best to have all the areas fit well so you can fully tap into your confidence and personal power. If this is a problem area then look for custom jackets that fit your body perfectly.
Bust To Waist Length
The length between your bust and waist can create an issue in jacket fit especially if you have a curvy Body Shape.
Many women are short between their busts and waists and long between their waists and crotches because it gives more room for the baby. However this causes jacket fit problems.
The easiest way to tell if the jacket fit in this area is too long for you is in the center back area at the waist. If this area bulges out, then the jacket is too long in this area.
If the jacket is short between the bust and waist, then the waistline lands above your natural waist. You can tell where your natural waist is by bending to the side. The place of the bend is your natural waist. This can cause problems when buttoning the jacket and the curve for the hips is in the wrong place.
This can be a hard alteration to make. Ask your tailor/seamstress for help, if you love everything else about the jacket. The best option is to have the jacket custom made for you.
That being said if a suit jacket doesn’t totally fit in this area, it doesn’t mean don’t wear it. Women don’t really need to button up a jacket like men do. If it’s a little small, no more than a 2 inch gap in this area, and every other place fits well, then wear the jacket. The most important fit on a jacket is at the shoulders, shoulder blades and bust. If you have an “O” Body Shape or an “H” with a belly you can wear a jacket this way. Just remember no more than a 2 inch gap.
Jacket Fit -- Hips
Not all jackets fall below the hips. Right now, at the time of this blog post longer jackets are on trend, a carryover from last season. Looking at jacket fit at the hips is important.
For the best fit in this area, there needs to be around 2 inches of wearing ease so you can easily move when the jacket is buttoned up.
If you like the look of a buttoned up jacket and you have an “A” Body Shape, then don’t get the jacket to fit in this area, causing the rest of the jacket to be too big. I see this a lot and it takes away from your confidence and personal power.
In my younger days I had this problem. When I was an accountant I needed to wear a jacket to work. I found ready-to-wear jackets didn’t fit in this area but they fit well in the other areas. There were times when I didn’t have the time to tailor a jacket but I needed a new suit. As a result I had to purchase it.
What I would do is get the jacket to fit everywhere except my hips. Then I would leave the jacket unbuttoned. By doing this I had more confidence. When I put on a jacket that fit in the hips and was too big everywhere else I didn’t feel the same confidence level.
I also found wearing a jacket two to three inches below my waist mitigated the hip issue. I’m one who can wear horizontal lines in this area.
However to tap into your confidence having the jacket fit in this area will help. Unfortunately the only way for that to happen is a custom made jacket.
Jacket Fit -- Hem
The placement of the jacket hem is an important part of the overall jacket fit. Hems create a horizontal line and you want it placed in an area which enhances your body. Your Body Shape and Body Proportions give you clues to the best placement for you.
If the hem is too short there isn’t a lot you can do, but an experienced tailor/seamstress might be able to shorten it if the length is too long.
Petite Vs Regular
As with the fit of blouses and dresses, this is critical. If you find you can pinch a jacket at the shoulder seams and everything else falls into place, look for them in the petite department.
Petite clothes are made for women who are 5’2” or 5’3”; however, there are women who proportionally have short torsos. If this is you, consider going to the petite department. You might have better luck there.
I know it’s getting harder to find cute petite clothes. Go online. Many stores have more petite clothes on their websites for example, Macys, Ann Taylor, Gap, J Crew and Talbots to name a few.
Summary
The most important parts of jacket fit are:
- Width of Shoulders
- Shoulder Blades
- Bust
- Arms
If any of these don’t fit your body, the jacket will not fit well. As a result, it will take away your confidence and personal power.
If you are finding you need to alter many areas, it might be best to have the jacket custom made in the first place.
It’s my belief that jackets make a statement about who you are and fit is very important. By just putting on a well-fitted jacket you will add to your confidence and personal power. For example when making an important presentation, wearing a jacket will give you that extra boost of confidence.
If you find length is a problem because you are tall or have a long torso, then look for manufacturers that specialize in tall sizing. There are several websites that cater to tall women for example American Tall — 5’10” and above.
If you can’t find an experienced tailor/seamstress to do the alterations or alterations can’t be done, have your jacket custom made. I know they can be expensive, but consider the cost per wear. This is the cost of the jacket divided by the amount you wear it. The more you wear it the cost per wearing decreases.
Another option is to tailor your own jacket if you’re an experienced sewer. Tailoring a jacket takes intermediate or advanced sewing skills. My favorite things to create are my jackets.
Did you learn anything new regarding the fit of jackets? Tell us what you learned by writing it in the comments below.
Next week’s post is on skirt fit. It’s called Skirt Fit — How To Create A Perfect Fit.
Wear Your Greatness!!
